Category: Reviews

Baltic Bakehouse welcomes you

Baltic Bakehouse Liverpool

I have just spent a year in Liverpool off and on, dispersing and disposing of my late mother’s house and effects, and re-acquainting myself with the city. It is a…[Read more]

Francois is ready to receive you!

La Ferme London

In case you thought there were more than enough restaurants at the Farringdon road end of Exmouth Market, let me introduce you to another one. Quietly over the last 2…[Read more]

A modern taverna

The Greek Larder

Theodore Kyriakou is an old hand, with great taste in spectacles. He was instrumental in 1999 in introducing Londoners to a world of Greek food away from the standard kebab,…[Read more]


Babaji Istanbul Pide Salonu

Since Wagamama, Hakkasan and Yauatcha, Alan Yau seems to be making it increasingly tricky to pronounce the names of his enterprises. The last one, a Bangkok cafe called NaamYaa, maybe…[Read more]

Lima Floral

Lima Floral – Peruvian gastro revolution (1)

What makes for a successful restaurant? The food, the food I hear you reply, but it is by no means the only factor. In fact, it is only one of…[Read more]

La Table des Anges

La Table des Anges

Perhaps the proprietor of this restaurant was thinking of the book An Angel at My Table by the New Zealand writer Janet Frame, when he decided to build an identity…[Read more]


Euphorium and Harris & Hoole at Tesco

Many people have a love-hate attitude towards supermarkets. They can be seen as a massive convenience to which we have succumbed, reducing the tedious process of daily food shopping to…[Read more]

Young Parisians pile into Pret

Pret a Manger and Exki, Paris

I spent the first decade of my sandwich cafe life when in the North West of England referencing Pret a Manger. The first branch of Mangetout in Liverpool opened in…[Read more]

Bruno and his team

Grain Store Kings Cross

The January before last, the restaurant critic AA Gill declared 2012 to be the year of the vegetable. In the event, this prediction did not materialise as it was instead…[Read more]


Balthazar Bakery

The most eagerly awaited opening in the restaurant world this Spring was the second branch in London of Balthazar, Keith McNally’s highly successful New York restaurant. Arguably the doyen of…[Read more]